One of the most consistent addresses in central Portoviejo for traditional Manabí cooking. El Gato does the full roster — viche de pescado, encocado de camarón, ceviche de concha — without modernising any of it. The portions are generous and the price is firmly local. The fish viche here is the real thing: deep, peanut-thick, with plantain and fish that have cooked together long enough to become a single flavour.