Cayenne is where the territory's trips are sold, even when they happen two hundred kilometres away: the receptive agencies are here, and so are most of the boats, the fishing guides and the kitesurf schools. A few of the operators below are in Matoury, Macouria or Montsinéry, the communes that run west and south from the city — twenty to forty minutes out, and still the nearest thing to Cayenne there is.
What this coast does best is water. The rivers inland — the Comté, the Montsinéry, the Tonnégrande — are quiet, brown and lined with forest, and a morning on them costs a fraction of anything involving a flight. The agencies are worth their fee only if you want somebody else to assemble a fortnight; the guides and boatmen are cheaper booked directly.