The Huaca El Brujo complex, about 60 kilometres north of Trujillo, is a less-visited but extraordinary Moche ceremonial site. It consists of three main mounds, the most excavated of which — Huaca Cao Viejo — has polychrome murals comparable in quality to those at the Huaca de la Luna.
The site gained international attention with the 2006 discovery of the Lady of Cao (Señora de Cao), a Moche woman buried with the regalia of a ruler, now considered among the most significant archaeological finds in the Americas. The Lady of Cao is now on display in the excellent site museum, which opened in 2009. The mummy, her offerings, and the headdress and war clubs buried with her make this one of the most compelling museum experiences in northern Peru.
Getting here requires a taxi or tour from Trujillo; the drive takes about 90 minutes. Most tour agencies in Trujillo combine a visit here with other northern sites.