Getting around Angola takes patience, money, or both. The country is enormous and infrastructure, while improving, is still catching up after decades of war. Your options depend heavily on where you want to go and how much discomfort you can tolerate.
Domestic flights are the only practical way to cover long distances quickly. TAAG Angola Airlines operates flights from Luanda to about fourteen domestic destinations, including Benguela, Lubango, Namibe, Cabinda, Malange, and Saurimo. Flights are reasonably priced by Angolan standards but delays and cancellations are common. Book as far in advance as you can, especially during the dry season. Sonair also operates some domestic routes, particularly to oil-industry destinations.
Driving is how most overland travel happens. The main highways radiating from Luanda have been rebuilt and are in good condition -- the road south to Benguela and Lubango is now a proper highway. Secondary roads are another story: many are unpaved, potholed, and impassable during the rainy season. A 4x4 is essential for anything off the main routes. Fuel is cheap (Angola produces its own oil), but stations can be scarce outside major towns. Carry extra fuel on long journeys. Driving in Luanda itself is an ordeal -- traffic is severe from early morning to evening, and the average speed in the city can drop below 10 kilometers per hour.
Car rental is available in Luanda but expensive, typically $80 to $150 per day for a basic vehicle, more for a 4x4. Renting with a driver is common and often a better option -- your driver knows the roads, the police checkpoints, and where to find fuel. Many hotels and tour operators can arrange this.
Trains are limited but improving. The Luanda Railway runs east from the capital into the interior. The Benguela Railway, a famous colonial-era line, connects Lobito to the eastern border via Huambo and has been rehabilitated with Chinese investment. Trains are slow but cheap and an interesting way to see the country if you have time.
Buses and minibuses connect major cities. Long-distance buses (Macon and others) run between Luanda and cities like Benguela and Lubango. They are affordable but journeys are long -- Luanda to Lubango takes twelve hours or more. Candongueiros (blue-and-white minibus taxis) handle urban and short-distance routes. They are cheap, crowded, and follow no fixed schedule -- just wave one down and tell the cobrador where you are going.
Police checkpoints are a fact of life on Angolan roads. Keep your documents (passport, visa, vehicle registration) accessible. Officers may ask for a "contribution" -- staying polite and patient usually resolves things without paying, though it takes time.