Luanda's raw energy. Angola's capital is not a pretty city, but it is a fascinating one. The Marginal waterfront promenade, the Fortaleza de Sao Miguel overlooking the bay, the Ilha de Luanda with its beach bars and grilled fish -- Luanda rewards travelers who are willing to deal with its chaos. The nightlife is among the best in Africa, fueled by kuduro and semba music.
Kalandula Falls. About five hours east of Luanda near Malange, these falls are among the largest in Africa by volume. Water drops 105 meters across a 400-meter-wide curtain of rock, sending up clouds of spray that catch the light. The surrounding countryside is lush and green, and you will likely have the viewpoint to yourself. The road from Luanda has improved significantly in recent years.
Kissama National Park. Just 75 kilometers south of Luanda, Kissama is Angola's only functioning national park. The wildlife was decimated during the civil war, but a restocking program called Operation Noah's Ark brought elephants, zebras, and other animals from Botswana and South Africa. You will not see Serengeti-level densities, but driving through the baobab-dotted savanna along the Kwanza River has a quiet, frontier feel. It is easily done as a day trip from the capital.
The Benguela coastline. South of Luanda, the coast becomes genuinely beautiful. Benguela and Lobito have faded Portuguese colonial charm, clear water, and beaches that see almost no visitors. Lobito's sandbar peninsula stretches dramatically into the Atlantic. The diving around Benguela's offshore rocks is excellent, and the seafood is the best in Angola -- fresh from the boats and a fraction of Luanda prices.
Lubango and the southern highlands. The city of Lubango sits at over 1,700 meters on the edge of a dramatic escarpment. The Cristo Rei statue overlooks the city, but the real draw is the landscape. The Tundavala gap is a sheer 1,000-meter cliff with views across the lowlands to Namibe. The Serra da Leba pass, a series of tight switchbacks carved into the mountainside, is one of the most spectacular roads in Africa. The highland climate is pleasantly cool, a welcome break from the coastal heat.
The Namib meets the Atlantic. In Namibe province, desert dunes run straight into the ocean. The landscape is austere and beautiful, home to the bizarre Welwitschia mirabilis plants -- ancient desert survivors that can live for over a thousand years. The remote Iona National Park in the far south is Angola's largest protected area, bordering Namibia's Skeleton Coast.