The Palais du Lamido is a low compound of mud-walled buildings, conical thatched halls and ceremonial gates, hidden behind a high wall in the centre of Ngaoundéré. The most striking element is the great audience hall, a circular room with a soaring thatched roof supported on carved wooden pillars and walls hung with painted leather and weaponry.
The palace is open to visitors most days; a small donation to the gatekeeper is expected. Fridays are by far the best time to come — the Lamido holds court after midday prayers, and a colourful procession of musicians, courtiers and supplicants gathers in the main courtyard. Photography is generally permitted outside the audience hall, but ask before pointing a camera at the Lamido himself.