Praia's nightlife is one of its genuine assets — for a city of this size in West Africa, the music scene is exceptional. Cape Verdean music has several distinct traditions: the morna (melancholy, introspective, strongly associated with Cesária Évora), the funaná (faster, African-inflected, accordion-driven), and the batuque (drum-heavy, rooted in the slave traditions of Santiago island specifically). On any given evening you can find all three.
Quintal da Música on the Platô is the most reliable live music venue in the city. There are also smaller bars on Avenida Amílcar Cabral and the surrounding streets that host music nights during the week. For something simpler, the cafes on Praça Alexandre Albuquerque are good for a coffee and watching the city go by.