Praia is the capital of Cape Verde and the largest city in the archipelago — relaxed by African capital standards, with a compact old quarter (the Platô) perched on a plateau above the harbour. The colonial Portuguese architecture and the central Praça Alexandre Albuquerque give it more charm than most West African capitals manage.
The nightlife is excellent for a city of this size. Cape Verdean music — batuque, funaná, and morna — is alive here, and live music venues are easy to find most nights of the week. Quintal da Música on the Platô is the most reliable spot. The beaches in town are decent — Prainha is the closest — and better ones are within a short taxi ride south.
Getting around Santiago from Praia is easy, and Cidade Velha — the first European city built in the tropics and a UNESCO World Heritage Site — is just 15 kilometres west. The dramatic interior highlands of Serra Malagueta make for a worthwhile day trip further north.