Asheten Mariam Monastery

Asheten Mariam is a monastery perched on the escarpment high above Lalibela, reachable on foot or by mule in a two- to three-hour climb from the town. The altitude here is around 3,000 metres — considerably higher than the church complex below — and the views back over the Lasta highlands on a clear day are exceptional. The monastery itself is built into a cave in the cliff face, and several monks live permanently in cells carved from the surrounding rock.

The church interior contains painted crosses and old manuscripts, and the monks are generally willing to show visitors around if approached respectfully. Donations are expected and appreciated. The climb is the main event: the trail passes small farms, juniper trees, and highland meadows before reaching the escarpment. Starting before 7am avoids both the heat of the day and the midday crowds at the churches below. The descent, done in afternoon light, can be spectacular.

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The climb to Asheten Mariam takes two to three hours on foot through highland terrain at 3,000 metres — by the time you arrive, the altitude makes itself felt. At the top, monks live in cave cells cut into the cliff face below the monastery itself. They have been doing so, more or less uninterrupted, since the 13th century. The head monk will often show visitors the church's most prized possession: a collection of illustrated manuscripts, some of them 700 years old, stored in leather pouches and brought out for inspection with quiet ceremony.

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