Bandim Market

The largest and most important market in Bissau, known locally as "chapa de Bissau" — a phrase that roughly translates as the heart of the city. Bandim sprawls across several blocks in the residential district of the same name and operates from early morning through the heat of the afternoon. Produce, dried fish, palm oil, cloth, household goods, phone accessories, and traditional medicines are all sold here, often from stands so close together that navigation requires patience and politeness.

The best time to visit is between 7 and 11 am, when the market is coolest and most active. Fresh vegetables and fish arrive early; by noon the heat has driven most shoppers inside. The textile section, where women sell pano lança (traditional strip-woven cloth) and imported fabrics, is particularly interesting. Bargaining is expected but not aggressive; prices are generally reasonable.

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A story
Bandim gives its name to the whole district that grew up around it, and also to one of the most important epidemiological research stations in Africa — the Bandim Health Project has been tracking the health of children in the surrounding neighbourhood since 1978, and has produced influential work on vaccine effects. The market and the clinic coexist in the same streets, each representing a different response to life in one of the world's poorest countries.

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