Bissau rewards slow walking rather than sightseeing in any conventional sense. The colonial architecture of Bissau Velho, the market at Bandim, and the waterfront around the port give a sense of the city's character — faded, independent, and unhurried. The main formal sights are few: the ruined Presidential Palace, Fort Amura, the cathedral, and the Ethnographic Museum. Most visitors are here because Bissau is the gateway to the rest of the country and to the Bijagos Islands.