Madagascar's approximately 29 million people are collectively called the Malagasy, but they are far from a homogenous group. Around 18 recognized ethnic groups inhabit the island, each with distinct traditions, cultural practices, and historical territories.
The most politically prominent group are the Merina, who live on the central plateau around Antananarivo and have Indonesian ancestry that is visible in their lighter complexion and straighter hair. The Merina dominated the kingdom that controlled much of the island before French colonization in 1896, and they remain culturally influential today. The Betsileo, south of the Merina on the plateau, are closely related and renowned for their rice-growing skills — the terraced paddies of the highlands are largely their work.
The coastal peoples (collectively known as côtiers) have a stronger Bantu African ancestry mixed with Arab and Malay influence. Major groups include the Betsimisaraka of the east coast, the Sakalava of the west, and the Antandroy and Mahafaly of the far south, who are traditionally cattle-herding peoples with elaborate funerary traditions.
Despite these ethnic distinctions, almost everyone speaks Malagasy as their first language — an Austronesian tongue more closely related to languages in Borneo than to any African language, a fact that still puzzles and delights linguists. French is also widely spoken and is used in government, business, and secondary education. In the tourist industry you will find English increasingly common, particularly among younger Malagasy in the cities.
Ancestor veneration runs deep across ethnic lines. The dead are interred in elaborate family tombs, and communicating with ancestors through ritual is part of daily life for many Malagasy. The famadihana ceremony of the highland peoples — in which ancestral remains are exhumed, wrapped in fresh cloth, and danced with — is the most striking expression of this relationship between the living and the dead. If you are ever invited to a famadihana, go.
Christianity (both Catholic and Protestant) is widespread, coexisting easily with traditional beliefs. A minority practice Islam, concentrated mainly along the northwest coast. The country's population is young and growing quickly, with the majority under 20 years old.