Essaouira eats fish — its commercial port lands tons of sardines daily, and the simplest, best meal in town is a plate of grilled sardines with bread and salad at the row of open-air fish grills at the entrance to the port. You point at what you want from the iced display, they weigh it, grill it, and bring it to a plastic table for a few euros. Beyond the port grills, the medina has a respectable scene of small Moroccan restaurants and a handful of more ambitious places run by French expats and returning Marrakchis.