Essaouira's pleasures are mostly outdoors and free: walking the ramparts, prowling the port at the afternoon catch, getting comfortably lost in the medina lanes. The main paid attraction is the small Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah museum of regional crafts and music. Beyond town, the coastline gives surfers and windsurfers a string of bays — flat water by the port, big swells south at Sidi Kaouki and north at Moulay Bouzerktoun.