Getting Around

Inside the medina, you walk. Cars cannot enter, and the only other transport is the donkey trains that haul goods through the alleys (you will hear the cry of "Balak!" — "watch out!" — and you should step aside fast). For your first day, hire a guide; the medina is genuinely confusing and a good guide will take you to workshops and viewpoints you would never find. After that, just wander — when in doubt, walk downhill toward the river to find the centre, or uphill to find an exit.

Between the medina, Fes el-Jdid, and the Ville Nouvelle, take a petit taxi (red, metered, cheap — insist the meter is on). City buses run the same routes but are usually crowded.