Swakopmund's restaurant scene is better than you would expect for a town of 45,000. The German heritage shows in the bakeries and cafes — good coffee, proper bread, and Apfelstrudel that people drive four hours from Windhoek to eat. But the best meals lean on what the Atlantic delivers: kingklip, kabeljou, lobster, and oysters from Walvis Bay, often still alive when they reach the kitchen.