☰Stellenbosch

Stellenbosch has one of the best restaurant scenes in South Africa outside Cape Town, driven by the steady flow of wine tourists and a prosperous university town population. The best places are generally either on or near Dorp Street or on wine estates a short drive from town.

Overture at Hidden Valley estate is consistently rated among South Africa's top ten restaurants — modern wine-country cuisine with estate-grown produce and an exceptional view. Booking well in advance is essential. Terroir at Kleine Zalze is similarly serious and similarly booked up. For something more casual in town, Wijnhuis on Church Street has a good wine list (the whole point is the selection by the glass) and solid bistro cooking. Mozaiek at Babylonstoren farm, about 20 kilometres from town, is worth the drive for lunch — the gardens are spectacular.

For coffee and cake, the Deli at Spier wine estate is reliable and has good outdoor seating. Schoon on Dorp Street is the spot for sourdough and excellent coffee.

Stellenbosch is 50 kilometres east of Cape Town — about 45 minutes by car on the N2 freeway, turning off at the R310. There is no traffic to speak of outside rush hour and the drive is straightforward.

By car is the most practical option, since the wine estates are spread across the surrounding valleys and public transport between them does not exist. From Cape Town by train: the Metrorail train from Cape Town station to Stellenbosch runs several times daily and takes about an hour. It is inexpensive and reliable. The station is in the centre of town. By bus: Intercape and several shuttle services run from Cape Town airport and the city centre, taking about 45 to 60 minutes.

Stellenbosch divides into two distinct activities: exploring the handsome Cape Dutch town centre on foot, and driving the wine estates in the surrounding valleys. Both are excellent. The town is compact and walkable, with oak-lined streets, good museums, and cafes. The wine estates require a car and ideally a driver — many do wine tastings that make driving yourself inadvisable.

Stellenbosch is at its most beautiful in autumn (March to May), when the vineyards turn red and gold and the harvest is underway. This is also the best time to visit wine estates, when you can see the winemaking process in action and taste newly made wine from the barrel.

Spring (September to November) is excellent too — the fynbos is in flower in the mountains, the days are warm without being hot, and the vineyards are in full green leaf. Summer (December to February) is hot and dry, with temperatures often reaching 35°C, but the town stays lively and the wine estates are in full tourist swing. Winter (June to August) brings cold nights and occasional rain, which keeps visitors away and reduces hotel prices significantly. The town is still pleasant in winter, the mountains look dramatic, and the restaurants are easier to get into.