The Great Mosque of Béja sits in the heart of the old medina, a short walk below the kasbah. It dates in its present form to the Aghlabid period in the 9th century, although the site has been continuously used as a place of worship for longer — the mosque is built on the foundations of a Byzantine church, which itself replaced a Roman temple. The minaret is the most visible landmark of the old town.
The mosque is in active use and entry to the prayer hall is restricted to Muslims, as is common in Tunisia outside Kairouan. From the small open courtyard at the entrance, however, you can see the carved arches and the proportions of the building. The walk to the mosque takes you through the most atmospheric corner of the medina, where vegetable sellers spread out under the arcades and the call to prayer echoes off the white walls.