Hwange's elephants are the reason many travellers come. In the late dry season, family herds and bull groups gather at waterholes in numbers that can be astonishing: dozens at a time, sometimes more, with animals waiting their turn, calves pushing between legs, and older bulls dominating the best positions near the pump outlet.
The best way to see them is to stop moving. Pick a productive pan, park in a respectful position, and let the herds settle. You will see the social order more clearly than on a drive-by sighting: greetings, discipline, dust bathing, mock charges, and the low communication that passes through a herd before they move off into the trees.