Balkh

Ancient northern Afghan city, once Bactra, with Timurid shrines rising from ruined walls and fields

Balkh lies in northern Afghanistan, close to Mazar-i-Sharif, and claims to be one of the oldest cities in the world. It is the legendary birthplace of the prophet Zoroaster. Alexander the Great founded a Greek colony here, and as Bactra it became the capital of the independent kingdom of Bactria. In the early centuries AD, Balkh was a prominent centre of Buddhism, renowned for its monasteries and stupas.

The Arabs arrived in the 8th century and the city became important in the Islamic world as the original home of the Barmakids. Under the Abbasid caliphate its fame as a centre of learning earned it the title "mother of cities." Genghis Khan sacked Balkh in 1221 and it lay in ruins until Timur rebuilt it in the early 16th century.

Today the old city is mostly in ruins, with fragments of walls and mosques visible among the fields. The most important surviving monument is the Shrine of Khwaja Abu Nasr Parsa — the Green Mosque — whose Timurid tilework still dominates the skyline. The Bala Hissar citadel mound and the great encircling walls give a sense of the ancient city's enormous extent. The No Gonbad Mosque, dating from the 9th century, is the oldest Islamic monument still standing in Afghanistan. Near the centre, the Shrine of Rabi'a Balkhi honours the first woman to write poetry in Persian, and remains an active place of pilgrimage. The new town, some distance away, is a small agricultural and commercial centre inhabited chiefly by Uzbeks. Given the security situation in Afghanistan, visitors should plan with great care and use experienced local guides.

Guide

Getting There

Balkh is reached from Mazar-i-Sharif, the regional capital, which lies about 20 kilometres to the east. The journey takes 30 to 45 minutes by shared taxi or private vehicle on a decent paved road. Most visitors are based in Mazar-i-Sharif and come to Balkh as a half-day trip.

Mazar-i-Sharif has an international airport with flights to Kabul and, historically, to Dubai and other regional cities. The security situation in northern Afghanistan has fluctuated significantly over the years, and visitors should check current conditions carefully before planning any trip. At the time of writing, independent travel in this part of Afghanistan is not advisable for most foreign visitors. The only practical way to visit safely, if conditions permit, is with an experienced local guide or as part of an organized group.

The road north from Kabul through the Salang Tunnel is a historic route but a difficult and sometimes dangerous journey of eight hours or more. If you are coming overland from Uzbekistan, the Friendship Bridge at Hairatan crosses into Afghanistan near Mazar-i-Sharif and can be used by travellers with the appropriate visas.

Guide

Things to Do

Balkh rewards visitors with an interest in deep history. The sites are mostly ruins — not carefully excavated and interpreted ruins, but raw ancient remains scattered through a landscape that has been inhabited for 3,500 years. There is little tourist infrastructure, and getting here requires passing through or near Mazar-i-Sharif. But for anyone interested in the ancient Silk Road, Zoroastrianism, or the lost cities of Central Asia, Balkh is one of the most evocative places in the world.