Ninguo Road and the surrounding streets in central Hefei constitute the city's best-known food destination — specifically for xiaolongxia, the freshwater crayfish that Hefei has made its own. Restaurants here start filling in the early evening and reach peak intensity around 9pm, when tables spill onto the pavement and the smell of garlic, chili oil, and river crustaceans pervades the street.
The crayfish come in several preparations: braised with garlic (most popular), with black pepper, with thirteen-spice mix, or in a milky white soup. Order by weight — a kilogram between two people is a reasonable starting point — and settle in for the messy business of eating them. The better restaurants in this area also do good Huizhou-influenced dishes if your group includes non-crayfish eaters.