Haikou is the capital of Hainan, China's southernmost province, sitting on the northern coast of the island where the Qiongzhou Strait separates it from the mainland. Most travellers pass through on their way to the beach resorts around Sanya in the south, but the old "Coconut Capital" has more substance than its reputation suggests.
The most distinctive part of the old town is the Bo'ai Road qilou district, where arcaded shophouses built in the 1920s and 1930s by returned overseas Chinese line the streets with a mix of Chinese and Southeast Asian architectural styles found nowhere else on the mainland. The covered colonnades shelter small shops, teahouses, and food stalls serving Hainanese rice noodles and roasted meats from early morning. Beyond the shophouse district, Wugong Temple honours five Tang and Song dynasty officials — Su Dongpo among them — who were exiled to Hainan and turned their banishment into some of the most celebrated writing in Chinese literature. The adjoining Qiongtai Academy is one of Hainan's oldest educational institutions. The Hairui Tomb commemorates a Ming official whose reputation for incorruptibility was so extreme it became legendary across China. None are individually overwhelming, but together they make a genuine half-day.
Hainan's status as a special free-trade port means Haikou has become a significant duty-free shopping destination, with a vast retail complex near Xiuying Port drawing mainland Chinese in search of luxury goods, cosmetics, and spirits at prices well below the mainland market.
The climate is tropical year-round — hot and humid, with a rainy season from May to October and occasional typhoons between July and September. Coconut palms are everywhere, and coconut water is the default street drink. November to April is the most comfortable time to visit.