Hong Kong is one of the great food cities of the world, and the competition between restaurants is serious enough that quality stays high even at the bottom of the market. Cantonese food is the foundation — dim sum, roast goose, wonton noodle soup, clay-pot rice — but every Chinese regional cuisine has a foothold here, as do Japanese, Southeast Asian, and Western restaurants.
Dim sum is the Hong Kong institution: small dishes of dumplings, buns, and pastries served for breakfast and lunch in bustling tea houses. Tim Ho Wan (multiple locations) has Michelin recognition and manageable queues. For a more traditional atmosphere, Lin Heung Tea House on Wellington Street serves an older Cantonese clientele and still uses the traditional cart service.
The Star Street neighbourhood in Wan Chai has evolved into a good area for a meal away from the tourist circuit. The narrow streets around Star Street and Sun Street have a mix of European bistros, Japanese restaurants, and Chinese eateries. Prices are moderate to high.
Sheung Wan and Sai Ying Pun (west of Central) offer good eating at more realistic prices. The area around Queen's Road West has traditional dried seafood shops alongside newer cafes and restaurants.
For Cantonese roast meats, Yung Kee on Wellington Street has been a Central institution since 1942 — the roast goose is the thing to order. Jimmy's Kitchen on Wyndham Street has been feeding expats and visitors since 1928 with a menu of Western and Chinese standards; the Steak Diane remains a signature. Book ahead for both.
The night food stalls along Temple Street in Yau Ma Tei serve solid Cantonese seafood dishes at low prices from around 7pm.