☰Lin Heung Kui

Lin Heung Kui opens at 6am and by 7am is full of people who have been coming here for decades. The format is traditional yum cha: staff push carts through the room with bamboo steamers and plates of dim sum; you call out what you want as they pass. The room is old, loud, and indifferent to tourists — which is exactly the point. Standards: har gow, siu mai, lo mai gai, cheung fun, turnip cake. The egg tarts from the adjacent pastry counter are very good. Queen's Road West, between Sheung Wan and Kennedy Town MTR.