Yangzhou fried rice is one of the most widely replicated Chinese dishes in the world, served in Chinese restaurants on every continent — and the version available in Yangzhou itself is, predictably, a different animal from its global imitations. The authentic recipe requires day-old jasmine rice, eggs broken directly into the wok over high heat, fresh shrimp, diced ham or char siu pork, spring onions, and a strict restraint on oil and seasoning that allows the ingredients rather than the sauce to dominate.
The best local versions are served at the traditional teahouse restaurants in the old quarter, where it is typically a lunch or brunch dish accompanying the small delicacies of the Yangzhou morning meal. The rice should be dry and slightly smoky, each grain separate, with the egg coating creating a gloss rather than a pool. Do not confuse it with the egg-forward wetter preparations that pass under the same name elsewhere — the Yangzhou version is lighter and more refined.