Mausoleum of Qin Shi Huang

The unexcavated tomb of China's first emperor

The earthen pyramid containing the tomb of Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of China — the man who ordered the Terracotta Warriors buried as his guard. The mound is 76 metres high and a third of a kilometre on each side, planted now with pomegranate and persimmon trees. The tomb itself has never been opened: archaeologists fear that exposure to air would destroy whatever paint and silk has survived inside, and the mercury problem is real.

Most visitors find the mausoleum less spectacular than the warriors a kilometre to the east, and many tour itineraries skip it. But it is included on the Terracotta Warriors site ticket, the walk between the two is shaded, and standing on top of the burial mound — knowing what is sealed twenty-five metres beneath your feet — is a strange and quiet experience that the warrior pits cannot match.

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The 1st-century historian Sima Qian wrote that the mausoleum's interior holds a model of the empire with mercury rivers flowing into a mercury sea, the constellations painted on a vaulted ceiling, and crossbows rigged to fire at intruders. Modern soil surveys have indeed found mercury concentrations in the mound up to 100 times the regional background — which is one of the reasons the Chinese government has decided not to dig.