Yunnan-province food in a dark, candle-lit, opium-den interior of carved wood, lanterns and minority-textile cushions. The dishes mix Han Chinese, Bai and Dai influences: wild mushrooms with chillies, banana-leaf-wrapped fish from the Mekong, pickled tea-leaf salad, charcoal-grilled goat cheese (a rarity in Chinese cooking). The cocktail menu is good.
Two branches — Bund (off Yan'an East Road) and French Concession (Gaoyou Road). Reservations are essential at weekends. Mid-range pricing for what feels like a special-occasion night out.