Fen Jiu, produced in Fenyang south of Taiyuan, is one of China's most celebrated baijiu styles — a clear, light-flavoured spirit in the fen-xiang (Fen fragrance) category, distilled from sorghum and known for its relatively clean, floral character compared with the earthier styles from Sichuan and Guizhou. Fen Jiu has a history of over 1,500 years and was the dominant style in Chinese spirits culture before the more intensely flavoured Maotai tradition came to national prominence in the 20th century.
In Taiyuan, Fen Jiu is drunk both formally — at restaurant banquets where the host pours and the guests are expected to drain their glasses — and casually in the small baijiu bars that operate in the older residential neighbourhoods. The better restaurants stock aged vintages worth ordering; the everyday grade is very affordable. If you have not drunk baijiu before, starting with Fen Jiu's lighter style is a more forgiving introduction than the heavier Sichuan varieties.