Chengdu is one of the great food cities of China, and arguably its spiciest. Sichuan cuisine is built on the numbing tingle of huajiao (Sichuan peppercorn) combined with chillies — a sensation called mala that locals are addicted to and visitors learn to love. The classic dishes are everywhere: mapo tofu, kung pao chicken, twice-cooked pork, dan dan noodles, and of course the bubbling cauldrons of huoguo (hotpot) that anchor most evenings out.
Snacks (xiaochi) are a local obsession. Chuan chuan xiang — skewers of meat and vegetables boiled in spiced broth — are sold from sidewalk stalls all over town, paid for by the empty stick. Long Chao Shou and Chen Mapo Doufu are two long-established restaurants serving classic Chengdu dishes; the original Chen Mapo Doufu is on Xiyulong Street and still makes the dish that has been served there since 1862.
For hotpot, locals will steer you toward Shu Jiu Xiang, Xiao Long Kan, or Haidilao — but in truth almost any busy hotpot place in town will be excellent. Order the classic mala broth (or the split yin-yang pot if you can't take the heat the whole way) and ask for tripe, beef, lotus root, mushrooms and quail eggs.