Srimukhalingam Temple

The Srimukhalingam temple complex sits on the banks of the Vamsadhara River about 60 kilometres north of Srikakulam town, near the village of Srimukhalingam. Three main temples stand side by side, dedicated to Mukhalingeshwara (Shiva), Somesvara (Shiva), and Bhimesvara (Shiva) respectively. The stone carvings on the outer walls are among the finest examples of Eastern Ganga workmanship in the region — figures of celestial women, elephants, and scenes from the epics in a style that bears comparison with the better-known temples of Bhubaneswar across the Odisha border.

The location on the riverbank adds to the appeal: the temples are reflected in the water during the cooler months when the river runs fuller, and the surrounding area is quiet and green. The site is less visited than Arasavalli or Srikurmam, which means you are likely to have the carvings largely to yourself. A local priest is usually present and can explain the iconography of the main shrine, though Telugu is his language of instruction. The nearest accommodation is in Srikakulam town, and a hired car makes the most sense for combining this with a visit to Salihundam nearby.

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A story
The temple at Srimukhalingam takes its name from the mukhalinga — a Shiva lingam with a human face carved on it. This form of the deity is unusual in Andhra Pradesh, and the main temple is believed to have been the dynastic shrine of the Eastern Ganga kings, who ruled much of coastal Andhra between the 5th and 15th centuries CE. Inscriptions found here record royal donations going back more than a thousand years.

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