As the sun goes down, the beach shacks that spent the day selling grilled fish become informal bars. The menu shrinks to drinks — cold Kingfisher beer, local feni distilled from cashew or coconut, and the occasional cocktail — and the chairs fill up with people watching the sky turn orange over the Arabian Sea.
The atmosphere is easy and unstructured. Some shacks put on live music on weekend evenings during the October–February season; most simply leave the fairy lights on and let things take their own shape. It's the kind of evening that turns into a late one without anyone intending it to.