Gulmarg has two distinct seasons and two distinct personalities.
Winter (December–March) is when serious skiers come. Snow typically covers the slopes from December, with February the most reliable month for depth and quality. The upper Gondola runs weather permitting; on stormy days it shuts. Temperatures at the meadow routinely drop well below freezing at night, and the upper station can be brutal in wind. Bring proper layers and expect the unexpected — Kashmir winters can close roads for days.
Summer (May–September) brings an entirely different scene: wildflowers across the meadow, moderate temperatures during the day, and cool nights. The Gondola runs reliably, the golf course opens, and the Alpather Lake thaws over June. Trekkers use Gulmarg as a base for routes into the surrounding ranges. May and early June, when snow still lies on the high slopes but the meadow is green, can be the most beautiful time of all.
April and November are shoulder months — the ski season is winding down or not yet started, the tourist infrastructure is quieter, and prices drop. October sees clear skies and autumn colour on the fir forests.
Avoid the peak summer holidays in July and August if you want Gulmarg without crowds: it is popular with domestic tourists from the plains, and the meadow can get genuinely busy on weekends.