☰Gulmarg

Gulmarg has no airport and no railway station. All visitors arrive by road.

From Srinagar the distance is about 55 km via Tangmarg, taking one and a half to two hours depending on traffic. Taxis from Srinagar are the standard option; shared sumos (large jeeps) also run the route and are considerably cheaper. The road is well maintained as far as Tangmarg; the final stretch up to the meadow is steeper and narrower, but paved.

Most visitors come as a day trip from Srinagar. The taxi fare for a return day trip is fixed by the local union and should be confirmed before departure. Staying overnight is worthwhile if you want early morning light or more than one day on the slopes.

From Jammu involves either a flight to Srinagar (40 minutes) or the long road through the mountains (about 300 km, nine or more hours depending on conditions). Flying is strongly recommended; the road is spectacular but exhausting and subject to closures in winter.

In winter, road conditions between Tangmarg and Gulmarg can deteriorate quickly after snowfall. Check locally before setting out and allow extra time.

Gulmarg's appeal is vertical. The Gulmarg Gondola sweeps you from the meadow to 3,980 m on Afarwat Peak in two stages, giving you panoramic views of the Kashmir Valley and, on clear days, Nanga Parbat. In winter those upper slopes become India's most exciting ski terrain; in summer the Gondola runs for the views and the thin, cold air at altitude.

The Alpather Lake sits just below the ridge at 3,843 m, a short walk from the upper Gondola station. The lake stays frozen well into June; in summer it thaws to a vivid blue set against snow-streaked slopes. It is one of the most beautiful short walks in Kashmir.

Down in the meadow, the Gulmarg Golf Club occupies a broad, flower-studded plateau at 2,650 m — the highest golf course in the world, according to most claims. Even non-golfers enjoy walking the fairways. The Baba Reshi Shrine, a Sufi dargah set amid chinar trees on the road down from Gulmarg, is worth a stop for its serene atmosphere and medieval carved woodwork.

Gulmarg has two distinct seasons and two distinct personalities.

Winter (December–March) is when serious skiers come. Snow typically covers the slopes from December, with February the most reliable month for depth and quality. The upper Gondola runs weather permitting; on stormy days it shuts. Temperatures at the meadow routinely drop well below freezing at night, and the upper station can be brutal in wind. Bring proper layers and expect the unexpected — Kashmir winters can close roads for days.

Summer (May–September) brings an entirely different scene: wildflowers across the meadow, moderate temperatures during the day, and cool nights. The Gondola runs reliably, the golf course opens, and the Alpather Lake thaws over June. Trekkers use Gulmarg as a base for routes into the surrounding ranges. May and early June, when snow still lies on the high slopes but the meadow is green, can be the most beautiful time of all.

April and November are shoulder months — the ski season is winding down or not yet started, the tourist infrastructure is quieter, and prices drop. October sees clear skies and autumn colour on the fir forests.

Avoid the peak summer holidays in July and August if you want Gulmarg without crowds: it is popular with domestic tourists from the plains, and the meadow can get genuinely busy on weekends.