The Dras River runs through the heart of the valley, originating at the Machoi Glacier near Zoji La at 4,400 metres and flowing 86 kilometres northeast before joining the Suru River. In summer the river runs a pale glacial blue, fast and cold, cutting through a wide gravel-floored valley flanked by bare brown mountains. The valley floor sits at about 3,300 metres — high enough that every exertion feels slightly harder than it should.
Walking along the riverbank from the main village is the most straightforward way to get a feel for the landscape. The path is informal, the terrain easy, and on a clear morning the contrast between the turquoise water and the arid slopes is striking. In winter the river partly freezes and the valley fills with snow; temperatures at this point are genuinely dangerous, reaching −45°C on record. The Shina-speaking communities along the river have adapted over centuries to an existence at the cold extreme of what humans can reliably survive.