Leh's restaurant scene has evolved considerably as tourist numbers have grown, and the town now has a solid spread of options alongside the standard traveller staples. Most places are concentrated along the main bazaar and in the Changspa tourist village.
Bon Appétit on Fort Road is one of the better all-rounders — wood-fired pizzas, good pasta, and a range of Indian dishes that actually taste the way they should. The terrace has views up toward the palace.
Tibetan Kitchen near the market is the place for Tibetan food: thukpa (noodle soup), thenthuk (hand-pulled noodle soup), momos (dumplings), and skyu (a hearty stew of root vegetables and pasta). Simple, cheap, and warming after a cold day.
Lamayuru Restaurant in the centre is a solid choice for Indian standards — dal makhani, paneer dishes, and tandoor breads — as well as Ladakhi specialities including chhurpe (dried yak cheese) and butter tea if you want to try it once.
Alchi Kitchen on Fort Road, run by a woman from Alchi village, serves authentic Ladakhi and Tibetan food made with local ingredients: nettle soup, buckwheat pancakes, and hand-rolled pasta. One of the most interesting meals in town.
Wonderland Restaurant in Changspa has a popular rooftop, good coffee, and reliable breakfast options — eggs, porridge, and local bread — that are welcome after acclimatising on a bland diet your first day.