Hemis Monastery, 45 kilometres southeast of Leh, is the largest and wealthiest gompa in Ladakh. Re-established in 1672 by the Ladakhi king Sengge Namgyal under the Drukpa Lineage, it sits hidden in a side valley off the Leh-Manali Highway. The location — tucked against a cliff face, invisible until you round the last bend — adds to its atmosphere. The monastery houses exceptional collections of thangka paintings, gold statues, and ancient manuscripts.
The annual Hemis Festival, held in early June on the tenth day of the Tibetan lunar calendar, is one of the great spectacles of the Himalayan world. Monks perform elaborate cham dances in the main courtyard, wearing enormous painted masks representing wrathful deities and protective spirits, to the sound of long trumpets, cymbals, and drums. The festival celebrates the birthday of Padmasambhava, who is credited with bringing Tantric Buddhism to Tibet.