Dal Lake is the reason Srinagar exists. This 18-square-kilometre body of water in the heart of the city functions simultaneously as a neighbourhood, a highway, a market, and a garden. The houseboats along its shore range from modest wooden rooms to elaborately carved Victorian-era floating palaces. The shikaras that cross it carry everything from tourists on sunset rides to LPG cylinders and wedding guests. The floating gardens on the lake's surface are farmed by families who have worked the same plots for generations.
A shikara ride is the standard introduction, and rightly so — hiring a boat for two hours gives a ground-level view of the lake that no amount of lakefront walking can replicate. The vegetable market on the water operates from around 6am and is the best reason to be up early. For the full houseboat experience, at least one night moored on the lake is worth the premium; you fall asleep to the sound of water against the hull and wake up to mist and birdsong. The lake is also a serious birdwatching destination — great crested grebes, bar-headed geese, and numerous ducks winter here in large numbers.