The best time to visit Srinagar is April to October. Spring (April–May) is the finest season: tulips and irises bloom in the Mughal Gardens, cherry blossoms line the approach roads, and the snow on the surrounding peaks is still fresh. Crowds are lighter than summer and the weather is ideal for walking.
June to August is high season. The city fills with Indian domestic tourists; houseboats are busy and prices peak. Evenings are pleasantly cool. Booking ahead is important in July and August.
September and October are arguably the most beautiful months. The summer crowds thin, the light is golden, and the chinar trees around the lake turn brilliant orange and red. Many experienced travellers consider early October the single best time to be in Kashmir.
November to March is cold, grey, and wet. Most houseboats close for winter. The main reason to come in winter is skiing at Gulmarg (55 km away), which operates from December to March.
A practical note: September to October also sees Siberian migratory birds arrive at Hokersar wetland, 15 km from Srinagar — worth a morning for birdwatchers.