One of the most famous handicraft shops in Kashmir, Suffering Moses occupies a prime position on The Bund — the riverside promenade — and has been selling Kashmiri crafts since the 1920s. The name is a mystery even to the current owners; the leading theory is a corruption of "Suffering of Moses," though nobody can confirm this. The shop covers three floors of carpets, papier-mâché, crewel embroidery, pashmina, walnut wood items, and copper work, all displayed in the slightly chaotic but satisfying style of old-fashioned curio shops.
The quality at Suffering Moses is generally reliable and the prices reflect this — this is not where you come for bargains. But for genuine handmade Kashmiri crafts, particularly the finer papier-mâché items and silk carpets, the selection is wide and the provenance more trustworthy than many smaller shops on Boulevard Road. The staff do not apply excessive pressure, which makes browsing easier than at many competitors. If you are serious about buying a carpet or a high-quality pashmina shawl, starting here to calibrate what good looks like and what it costs is a practical approach.