☰Berhampur

Berhampur's appeal is largely in what is around it.

Gopalpur-on-Sea (16 km south-east) — once an ancient seaport and an Anglo-Indian seaside resort under the British, now a sleepy beach town with a long, broad strand and a small fishing harbour. Far quieter than Puri to the north, and far better for a real swim and walk. Stay overnight if you can; the seafront at dusk is the best argument for being in coastal Odisha.

Taptapani (50 km west) — a hot sulphur spring set in low forested hills, where a stone bathing pool collects the water at a temperature just bearable for soaking. Popular with pilgrims and Indian holidaymakers; basic accommodation is available if you want to come for a night.

Jaugarh (35 km north) — the site of one of the Ashokan rock edicts, a third-century BC pronouncement of the Mauryan emperor Ashoka carved into a boulder at the foot of a low hill. Of great historical importance and almost completely untouristed.

Chilika Lake — Asia's largest brackish lagoon, accessible from the northern Odisha coast around Rambha (about 60 km north of Berhampur). Famous for migratory birds in winter, Irrawaddy dolphins, and quiet boat trips out to small islands.

Berhampur eats well on Odishan and South Indian food without making much fuss about it. Look for fish curry made with the local catch — rohu, hilsa, or pomfret in mustard or tamarind gravy — and the daily Odishan thali at any of the established rice-meal restaurants near the main bazaar streets.

The mid-range hotels on Giri Road and Engineering School Road are reliable bets for an evening meal: vegetarian and non-vegetarian thalis, biryani, tandoori, and increasingly the standard Indo-Chinese menu. For breakfast, the South Indian tiffin houses near the railway station do dosais and idlis from very early in the morning.

If you have a day, a trip to Gopalpur-on-Sea for fresh fish at the beachfront shacks is the meal worth planning around.

Berhampur is the southernmost major city in Odisha, well connected by rail on the South Eastern and East Coast Railway lines. The nearest airport is at Bhubaneswar, about 167 km away. Frequent trains link Berhampur to Bhubaneswar and other major cities. NH-5 passes through the city, making it accessible by road from both the north and south.

Berhampur is the biggest commercial hub in southern Odisha, and the star purchase is Berhampuri silk sarees with their distinctive designs. The main shopping areas are Annapurna Market, Urban Bank Road, SNT Road, Ram Lingam Tank Road, Giri Market, and Chena Bazar. You can find everything from ethnic products to electronics, but the silk sarees are what make a trip to the markets worthwhile.

Berhampur is more of a base than a destination — the famous Berhampuri silk bazaars, a couple of major Hindu temples, and access to the coast at Gopalpur. The most appealing sights are around the city rather than in it; a day or two combining the silk markets with a trip to Gopalpur and to Taptapani is the usual pattern.