The Juna Mahal, the Old Palace, is the reason most travellers come to Dungarpur. The seven-storey fortress was begun in the 13th century and grew floor by floor as the rulers of Dungarpur added rooms above the original gate. From outside it looks like a plain hill fort. Inside, it is one of the finest painted palaces in Rajasthan — almost every wall and ceiling is covered in miniature murals, mirror work, glass mosaic, and Mewar-school frescoes.
The palace is not lived in any more and stays largely empty, which gives it a beautifully unrestored feel — the colours are faded, the corridors silent, and you can climb all the way to the top for views over the town and Gap Sagar lake. The Aam Khas durbar hall and the Kanch Mahal on the upper floors are the highlights. Visits are by appointment through the Udai Bilas Palace heritage hotel, which holds the keys.