Bada Bagh (the Great Garden) sits about 6 kilometres north of Jaisalmer on a flat stretch of desert plain. It is the royal cenotaph garden of the Bhati Rajput rulers — a walled enclosure containing the chhatris of successive Maharawals of Jaisalmer, each one a stone canopy supported by pillars, carved with portraits of the deceased and their horses. The oldest cenotaphs date from the 16th century; the newest, and smallest, is unfinished.
The chhatris are arranged loosely across the site and range from modest pillared platforms to elaborate two-storey structures with fine stone carving. The portraits carved on the pillars are often astonishingly detailed — some show the rulers' faces with distinct individual features. In the late afternoon, the golden light on the sandstone is spectacular, and the setting — desert on all sides, the fort barely visible on the horizon — is quietly dramatic.
Getting there is straightforward: hire an auto-rickshaw from Jaisalmer or include it in a tour that also covers other sites north of the city. The site opens at sunrise and is usually less crowded in the morning. There is a small entry fee.