Jaisalmer rises from the Thar Desert like a sandcastle come to life. The massive fort, built of golden-yellow sandstone, is a living citadel -- about a quarter of the old city's population still lives within its walls, along with Jain temples, havelis, and guest houses. Seen from a distance across the desert, especially at sunset, it is one of the most striking sights in India.
Most visitors come for a camel safari into the surrounding desert. Trips range from a few hours to several days, camping under remarkably bright stars. Be warned: prices vary wildly and some operators are unreliable. Book through your guesthouse or a recommended agency, agree on everything in advance, and if you have never ridden a camel before, start with a short trip -- your muscles will thank you.
The town itself is worth a couple of days. The Jain temples inside the fort have extraordinary carved stonework. The havelis of Patwon ki Haveli, Salim Singh ki Haveli, and Nathmal ki Haveli showcase the wealth of the Jaisalmer merchants. Sam Sand Dunes, about 40 km west, is the most popular spot for desert excursions, though the crowds there have grown considerably. The best time to visit is January or February, when the annual Desert Festival brings camel races, folk music, and a Mr. Desert pageant.