Khaba Fort

A ruined desert fort with attached abandoned village and a small antelope sanctuary

Khaba Fort is a ruined desert stronghold about 40 kilometres southwest of Jaisalmer, near the abandoned Paliwal village of Khaba. The fort itself is partially restored and open to visitors; from its ramparts you get long views across the flat desert terrain and, on clear days, can see dunes on the horizon. A small museum inside has modest displays on Paliwal Brahmin culture and the history of the fort.

The village below the fort is the more interesting element — like Kuldhara, it was abandoned by its Paliwal Brahmin population in the 19th century and has been empty since. The stone houses are more extensively ruined than at Kuldhara but the setting is quieter and less visited. The area around the village is a small government sanctuary for blackbuck and desert wildlife, and it is not unusual to see blackbuck grazing among the ruins.

Khaba is most commonly visited as part of a full-day jeep excursion that takes in the western desert: Kuldhara, Khaba, the Sam or Khuri dunes, and occasionally the Jaisalmer Wind Park, which has some of the most surreal desert imagery — hundreds of wind turbines rising from an otherwise empty landscape.

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