Getting around Nusa Penida is an adventure. The roads are narrow, often steep, and in places seriously degraded. Scooter hire is the most common approach but is not recommended for inexperienced riders — the descents to the south coast viewpoints involve hairpin bends and loose gravel. Several tourists have been injured badly enough to require evacuation.
The practical choice for most visitors is hiring a local driver for the day. Fixed rates are posted at the main harbour in Toyapakeh. A driver will know the roads, know when the viewpoints are less crowded, and get you back to the boat landing on time. For two or three people, the cost is very reasonable split between you.
The main landing point for boats from Bali is the harbour at Toyapakeh on the northwest coast, close to Crystal Bay. A second port at Buyuk serves the east side of the island.