Grand Mosque of Mataram

The Grand Mosque of Mataram, in the heart of Kotagede, is the oldest mosque in the Yogyakarta region and the spiritual centre of the original Mataram court. Three concentric walls and a split gate enclose a wide shaded courtyard planted with sapodilla and frangipani trees, and at the centre stands a low pavilion-style prayer hall with a stepped pyramidal roof — the recognisable Javanese masjid form.

The atmosphere inside the compound is quiet and unselfconscious; women in prayer dress, attendants tending the graves, and the smell of incense rising from the relic chamber. Take off your shoes at the gate, dress modestly, and walk softly. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome in the courtyard at any time except during the five daily prayer windows.

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The mosque is the oldest in Yogyakarta and was built around 1640 — but the curious pre-Islamic split gate (paduraksa) at its entrance, the high stone walls and the bedug (a giant drum carved from a single trunk) are clues that the founders saw no contradiction between the new faith and the older Javanese-Hindu courtly architecture. Friday prayers here still use the original bedug to call the faithful.