The market in the centre of old Kotagede has run on the same five-day rotation since the Mataram court was founded here in the 16th century. Legi day, falling once every five days in the Javanese calendar, is the busiest — sellers come in from the surrounding villages with vegetables, palm sugar, banana leaves and live chickens, and prices fall as the day wears on.
The market is most rewarding early in the morning between 5 am and 8 am. Try the local breakfasts at the warung stalls inside: kipo (a small green-tinged glutinous-rice sweet filled with grated coconut, only made in Kotagede) and yangko (a chewy ginger-and-rice-flour cake). Vendors are happy to let you try a sample before you buy.