Tahu sumedang — also called tahu bungkeng — is the reason most Indonesians know this town exists. The tofu is made from a recipe introduced by Chinese immigrants in the nineteenth century, deep-fried until the outside is a blistered, crackling shell while the inside collapses into a soft, almost hollow pocket. The texture is unlike ordinary fried tofu: the crust shatters, the interior steams, and the flavour is clean and savoury without heaviness.
Vendors line Jalan 11 April and the surrounding streets, selling pieces by the portion with lontong rice cakes, sambal, and bird's eye chilli on the side. The best versions come straight from the oil — within a minute of frying — so buy only what you can eat immediately. Prices are low enough that there is no reason to stint. The famous original stall, Tahu Sumedang H. Otong, has operated from the town centre for generations and is the one most Indonesians recommend, though the stalls around it are broadly similar in quality. If you are only passing through on the way between Bandung and Cirebon, pulling over for tahu is still worth the stop.