Rawon Setan — "Devil's Rawon" — is one of the most famous food stalls in Surabaya, known for its intensely dark, deeply flavoured beef rawon and its hours: it opens around midnight and stays open until the soup runs out. The name refers to the theory that only the devil eats at such an hour, though in practice it draws a lively crowd of night owls, taxi drivers, and people who have just finished a long night out.
The rawon here is the real thing — made with keluak nuts that turn the broth almost black, served with steamed rice, salted egg, and crispy shallots. A bowl with extras costs almost nothing. Find it on Jalan Embong Malang in the city centre.