Getting around Sumba requires patience and planning. Roads between Waingapu and Waikabubak are paved and in reasonable condition — the drive takes around three hours. Beyond the main route, roads vary from rough gravel to seasonal mud tracks, especially in the west during rains.
Motorbike: The most flexible option. Rentals are available in both Waingapu and Waikabubak, typically 80,000–120,000 IDR per day. This gives you access to villages and viewpoints that buses and taxis cannot reach.
Ojek (motorbike taxi): Readily available in both towns and useful for short hops to nearby villages.
Rented car with driver: The practical choice for covering longer distances or multiple village visits in a day. Arrange through your guesthouse; expect to pay 500,000–700,000 IDR for a full day. Drivers who know the villages and can introduce you to families are worth seeking out.
Bemo and local buses: Cheap but infrequent. Useful for budget travellers going point to point between towns, less practical for reaching remote villages on any schedule.
There is no ride-hailing app coverage outside the main towns. Plan accordingly.